The reason most people avoid getting a contractor’s licenses is the insurance and regulatory compliance. In truth, getting a contractor’s license is quick and simple: study for a couple weeks, take a multiple choice test, pass it, send in your $400, and you’ve pretty much got a license. But, for that license to be current you also need to carry insurance and adhere to certain state regulations. Here in lies the problem for 95% of unlicensed contractors. They can afford or don’t want to pay for insurance, training, etc. So why trust them working around your house?

City and county offices attempt to thwart unlicensed contractors by making it impossible to pull a permit without proof of license. But think about it, why would an unlicensed contractor even make the attempt at a permit. Supply houses have also made attempts to stop unlicensed contractors by denying the sale of certain products. However, most unlicensed contractors get around this by paying cash on a licensed contractors account, often times without the licensed contractor even knowing it.

The only way to really combat unlicensed contracting is for homeowners to check. So the next time you have a plumbing or heating technician over ask to see a copy of the license. In the state of California it is sufficient for field technicians to carry a paper copy of the company owner’s contractor license.

The following article is from the Contractors State License Board

Two Repeat Offenders Among 10 Nabbed in Chico Sting

SACRAMENTO – Ten illegal operators are headed to court next month following a Contractors State License Board undercover sting operation conducted at a Chico home on April 14, 2011, with investigators from the Butte County District Attorney’s Office.

CSLB investigators posed as property owners, inviting suspected illegal operators to bid on home improvement projects such as concrete, landscaping, fencing, painting, and tree trimming. Those who bid more than $500 received notices to appear in court for contracting without a license. California law requires that all home improvement projects valued at more than $500 for labor and materials be performed by a licensed contractor.

Some suspects are facing additional charges for illegal advertising and soliciting excessive down payments. State law requires that contractor license numbers be in all advertisements. Those who are not licensed may perform work valued at less than $500, but their ads must state that they are not a licensed contractor. Contractors are also prohibited by law from soliciting a down payment larger than $1,000 or 10 percent of the contract price, whichever is less.

This is not the first time Thomas Christopher Chadwick, 38, of Bangor, and Alvaro Barajas Garcia, 45, of Chico, have been caught in a CSLB sting. Both were issued notices to appear during a September 14, 2010 operation at a Chico mobile home park. Garcia pleaded guilty and was fined $1,010 for contracting without a license. Chadwick pleaded not guilty and is set for trial on one count of contracting without a license on June 20, 2011. Garcia and Barajas are now charged for a second offense which carries a penalty of up to $5,000 and at least 90 days in county jail.

“This sting should serve as notice that CSLB and its partners are serious about cracking down on illegal contracting activity in Butte County,” said Registrar Steve Sands.

In addition to the suspects caught in the sting operation, CSLB and the DA’s office will conduct follow-up investigations on at least two licensed contractors who are suspected of having employees who are not covered by workers’ compensation insurance. Contractors are legally required to purchase workers’ comp coverage for all employees to protect homeowners from liability if a worker is injured on their property.

Ducts:

The majority of ducts we come across in the field are damaged, under-insulated or leaking air.

In fact the average duct leakage in existing residential HVAC systems is 35%. The majority of air leakage occurs at the connection points in the duct system. For example this occurs at the connection of the duct to the register boot, the plenum, and wye connections. Unless the duct has been damaged it’s rare to find leaks in the middle of a duct.

Catastrophic damages, such as disconnected ducts, rodent damage, or environmental damage, if left unchecked, usually result in complete duct replacement. So it’s important to have your ducts checked every year. Since air leakage is the number one source of energy loss it’s important that homeowners have a pressure test completed to determine actual air loss in the system. This even includes newly installed ducts. Though it’s nearly impossible to design a completely sealed duct system, one should strive for less than 10% air leakage.

Mastic and butol tape are two of the best materials to use to properly seal and prevent air leaks. Mastic should be applied at any connection point, especially register boots and plenum connections. A common mistake we see in the field is the use of duct tape to seal air leaks. Though duct tape has the word “duct” in it, it was never intended for sealing ducts. A key indicator of a duct leak is discolored fiberglass. A lot of older ducts are insulated with yellow or pink fiberglass insulation. When the fiberglass starts to turn dark brown or black it usually means an air leak, the discoloration is accumulated dirt and debris.

Insulation:

Proper insulation is the second part of an efficient forced air system. Usually ducts are run through non-insulated spaces such as attics or crawl spaces. Since ducts cover approximately 40% of a home’s total square footage they become an easy source of heat loss though conduction.  A 2,000 square foot house would have roughly 800 square feet of duct. Think of this as having a second living room in your, non-insulated, attic or crawl space.

If we assume that that attic space reaches 140 degrees Fahrenheit and the fan is delivering air at 60 degree Fahrenheit, we are left with a difference in temperature, also known as “Delta T”, of 80 degree. By using the heat loss formula Q = (A *  T) / R we can estimate that a 2,000 square foot house ‘A’, with ducts insulated to R-value 4.2, ‘R’, would loss approximately 1.27 tons energy every hour. To put this in prospective, the typical 2,000 square foot house’s HVAC system would be powered by a 3.5 ton air handler, and therefore be losing 36% of its energy through conductive duct loss. If we re-run the same example, but insulate the ducts to an r-value of 8, we reduce the total energy loss to .66 tons. It’s clear that by improving duct insulation we drastically improve the efficiency of any HVAC system.

Length:

The third part of a properly designed HVAC system is duct length. In most cases duct length should be kept to a minimum and utilize a “spider” pattern; individual ducts should

come off of the plenum and run to individual registers through the house. By doing so total duct area is reduced. Since total duct area is represented in the numerator of our heat loss formula, Q = (A *  T) / R, reducing the area will reduce our total heat loss given that none of our other values change.

In summary all homes are not created equally and every HVAC system is going to be designed differently given the home’s layout, climate, and homeowner’s budget. However, every homeowner should consider the three parts mentioned above and have the ducts inspected. Often times a simple duct test, which typically runs $250 – $400, can lead to significant energy savings. Given the high cost of heating and cooling it will be money well spent. If you’d like to have your heating, cooling, and ducts system inspected, call us a Bellows Plumbing, HVAC, and Sewer, 877-477-7151. Our offices serve all cities within Santa Cruz, Santa Clara, and Marin Counties.

There are a lot of different variables that contribute to a backed up sewer line. During a torrential downpour saturated soil is usually to blame. Saturated soil puts additional pressure on the sewer lateral and allows the pipe to sink and shift. If the line is already infested with tree roots it only makes the problem worst and more likely. Once the line develops a crack or offset, mud and roots can quickly cause a major sewer stoppage.
With that being said, now is the time to be proactive instead of reactive! At Bellows we highly encourage our customers to have their drain lines inspected using our camera inspection methods. A drain inspection is a simple way to ensure that any potential causes for concern are addressed before the issue gets worse. A simple drain and sewer inspection will tell us if there are portions of your drain line that have been compromised by tree roots or offsets, which will make the problem even worse, if unchecked. By making repairs early we can usually prevent the line from suffering total failure.
If you’d like to get your sewer line checked out and determine if your sewer pipe is at risk of tree roots or cracks give us a call. We have qualified technicians in Santa Cruz, Santa Clara and Marin County ready to assist. Call 877-477-7151.
Kindly at your service,
Jason Schlunt – COO

Organic matter will eventually disintegrate. Here are some of the things that are able to be composted:

old bread/bread crusts

fruit/vegetable peelings

paper napkins/paper towels

egg shells

pastas and rice

brown paper bags

tea bags

peanut shells

coffee grinds

Doing this will go a long way towards ensuring you’ve minimized backups with your kitchen sink. Plus, none of the items above should go through your disposal anyways. But, let’s be honest we know that some of these items make it into the kitchen sink, so should you find yourself with a clog we’re just an email or phone call away.

We service all cities within Santa Cruz, Santa Clara and Marin County (our newest office!)

If you’d like more information about composting or clearing stuck kitchen drains give Bellows Plumbing, Heating, & Sewer a call at 877-477-7151 or visit BellowsService.com

A recirculation pump helps to save water by reducing the time it takes for hot water to reach the faucet. If you’ve ever wanted to save the water you run down the draining while waiting for hot water to arrive, then you should consider a recirculation pump. In a properly designed and installed recirculation system hot will be almost instant.  Recirculation pumps can be easily installed on most any tank water heater and the majority of tankless water heaters. Certain tankless manufactures do have restrictions so it’s important to have your plumber check before installing. In most cases tankless manufactures require the addition of an aquastat to help control the pump.

In the past recirculation systems worked by running a “return line” from the furthest fixture to the water heater. This essentially created a loop for hot water to travel. If your home didn’t have a loop installed during its original construction, the addition of a recirculation pump could be fairly pricey.  However, in recent years the invention of thermostatic baffles allows water to cross from the hot water lines and return back to the water heater thru the existing cold water lines. I know if sounds a bit crazy, but it works, and past client left nothing but rave reviews. Installation can typically be completed in less than two hours.

If you’d like more information about recirculation systems give Bellows Plumbing, Heating, & Sewer a call at 831-477-7150.

Like standard air-source heat pumps, mini splits have two main components: an outdoor compressor/condenser, and an indoor air-handling unit. A conduit, air conditioner mini split, which houses the power cable, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and a condensate drain, links the outdoor and indoor units.

ADVANTAGES The main advantages of mini splits are their small size and flexibility for zoning or heating and cooling individual rooms. Many models can have as many as four indoor air handling units (for four zones or rooms) connected to one outdoor unit. The number depends on how much heating or cooling is required for the building or each zone (which in turn is affected by how well the building is insulated). Since each of the zones will have its own thermostat, you only need to condition that place when someone is there. This will save energy and money.

Ductless mini-split systems are also often easier to install than other types of space conditioning systems. For example, air conditioner mini split, the hook-up between the outdoor and indoor units generally requires only a three-inch hole through a wall for the conduit. Also, most manufacturers of this type of system can provide a variety of lengths of connecting conduits. If necessary, you can locate the outdoor unit as far away as 50 feet from the indoor evaporator. This makes it possible to cool rooms on the front side of a building house with the compressor in a more advantageous or inconspicuous place on the outside of the building.

Since mini splits have no ducts, they avoid the energy losses associated with ductwork of central forced air systems. Duct losses can account for more than 30% of energy consumption for space conditioning, especially if the ducts are in an unconditioned space such as an attic.

In comparison to other add-on systems, mini splits offer more flexibility in interior design options. The indoor air handlers can be suspended from a ceiling, mounted flush into a drop ceiling, or hung on a wall. Floor-standing models are also available. Most indoor units have profiles of about seven inches deep and usually come with sleek, high tech-looking jackets. Many also offer a remote control to make it easier to turn the system on and off when it’s positioned high on a wall or suspended from a ceiling.

Split-systems can also help to keep your home safer since there is only a small hole in the wall. Through-the-wall and window mounted room air-conditioners can provide an easy entrance for intruders.

DISADVANTAGES The primary disadvantage of mini splits is their cost. Such systems cost about $1,500-$2,000 per ton (12,000 Btu per hour) of cooling capacity. This is about 30% more than central systems (not including ductwork) and may cost twice as much as window units of similar capacity.

The installer must also correctly size each indoor unit and judge the best location for its installation. Oversized or incorrectly located air-handlers often result in short-cycling, which wastes energy and does not provide proper temperature or humidity control. Too large a system is also more expensive to buy and operate.

Some people may not like the appearance of the indoor part of the system. While less obtrusive than a window room air conditioner, they seldom have the built-in look of a central system. There must also be a place to drain condensate water near the outdoor unit.

Qualified installers and service people for mini splits may not be easy to find. In addition, most conventional heating and cooling contractors have large investments in tools and training for sheet metal duct systems. They need to use (and charge for) these to earn a return on their investment, so they may not recommend ductless systems except where a ducted system would be difficult for them to install.

Bellows Plumbing, HVAC, & Sewer services Santa Cruz, Santa Clara and Marin County. Give us a call at 877-477-7151 or 408-866-4620 for more information or an estimate on a mini split heating & cooling system.

On December 16th 2010, President Obama signed the Middle Class Tax Relief Act of 2010 into law. The legislation combines spending and tax incentives designed to get the American economy moving again by investing in our nation’s road and energy infrastructure, and providing incentives for increasing the energy efficiency and performance of America’s homes and commercial buildings. Most of the tax incentives that were avaliable on HVAC equipment in 2010 were reduced for 2011.

Residential Tax Credit Details

Greater Tax Credit
For qualified improvements, homeowners may be able to claim tax credits equal to 10% of the installed costs (up to $500).

1. The old generous credit titled the 2009-2010 American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (ARRA) – was allowed to expire and was not renewed.

2. The new energy efficient tax credit is only a 10% credit, up to a maximum of $500.  The prior cap had been up to $1500, which will expire on Dec 31, 2010.

3. Furnaces are only allowed to get a $200 credit and they must now be 95% efficient, more stringent than the 90% requirement from 2009-2010.

4. A/C, Heat Pumps, and Central Air System can qualify for up to $300

5. Water heaters are eligible for up to $300

6. Wood heating systems are eligible for a max $300 credit.

7. To reiterate, of the various programs you may take advantage of, the cap is $500 total IF you haven’t taken advantage of the credit previously.

8. Anyone that took advantage of the prior tax credits cannot utilize the credit in 2011 (no double-dipping).

• Snood – the fleshy growth from the base of the beak, which is very long on male turkeys and hangs down over the beak
• Gizzard – part of a bird’s stomach containing tiny stones that helps grind food for digestion. (And some people like to eat these – yuck!)
• Wattle – the flap of skin under the turkey’s chin that turns bright red when the turkey is upset…or flirting.
• Turkey is the only native poultry breed of the Western Hemisphere
• At the first thanksgiving, the pilgrims and Native Americans ate “fowl”. This may have been turkey, but was probably ducks and geese.
• Turkeys can be found in every U.S. state except Alaska.
• More than 45 million turkeys are cooked and 525 million pounds of turkey are eaten during Thanksgiving.
• Ninety percent of American homes eat turkey on Thanksgiving Day. Fifty percent eat turkey on Christmas
• Turkeys have heart attacks. Allegedly, when the Air Force was conducting test runs and breaking the sound barrier, fields of turkeys would drop dead.
• A turkey can drown if he looks up when it is raining.
• A wild turkey’s field of vision is about 270 degrees.
• Turkeys have great hearing skills but no ears.
• A desperate turkey can run at speeds up to 20 miles per hour and burst into speeds of flight up to55 mph in a matter of seconds.

• Only male turkeys gobble. A “tom’s” gobble can be heard a mile away. Each spring, male turkeys try to “befriend” as many females as possible. They puff up their bodies and spread their pretty tail feathers (just like a peacock).  They grunt, make a “gobble gobble sound” and strut about shaking their feathers.  They call this the Turkey Trot ; )

• The heaviest turkey ever raised weighed in at 86 pounds — about the size of a large German Shepherd

We ate meat for every meal, because Dad said it couldn’t be classified as a meal without meat.  Probably 99% of the meat we ate was beef.  And probably 99% of that was ground beef, because it was the cheapest to have made.  So my mother got very clever at finding new ways to fix it.  I bet she had tens of thousands of different ground beef recipes in her head by the time she finished raising all eight of us kids.

My absolute favorite is also probably the simplest and cheapest to make; although to listen to Mom after she made supper, you’d think it took her hours and shortened her life in the process.  Anyhow, she called it California Chicken.  Maybe she was as desperate for creative names for her meals as she was for the recipes themselves, because it definitely doesn’t have chicken in it…and I haven’t met a soul in California who’s ever heard of it.  But it’s pretty darn good (and even better, it’s cheap and easy).

California Chicken

Ground Beef

A little bit of flour

Milk

Cream of Mushroom Soup

Potato Chips

Salt, Pepper, Onion Flakes

Brown the ground beef, a pound, or whatever you have on hand.  Season with salt, pepper and dried onion flakes.  (Mom says less is more when it comes to seasoning, but I’m all about over seasoning in this case – to counter the neutrality of the milk.)  Do not drain the grease! Add about three heaping tablespoons of flour and stir in.  Pour in some milk, till it looks right, maybe about 2/3 of the way up in a standard skillet.  Stir continuously until it starts to thicken.  Keep stirring for a little bit longer.  Stir in a can of cream of mushroom soup.  Taste it and make sure you seasoned it enough.

Line the bottom of a casserole dish with crumbled up potato chips.  Dump the concoction from your skillet in.  Crumble a bunch of potato chips on top.  If you want, you can use crackers or french-fried onions or something like that instead of potato chips.  Bake at 325 degrees (or whatever seems right to you) for 45 minutes or something like that, whatever you feel like really – everything’s cooked, so it’s not like you’re gonna get sick from it.  And poof – there ya go – California Chicken!!!

Note: My mother is a self-proclaimed “Dump Cook.” When you ask her for a recipe, she laughs and tells it like I just told it to you.  It’s really foolproof though – good luck

by Amy J

Lead Safe Plumber

Common renovation activities like sanding, cutting, and demolition can create hazardous lead dust and chips by disturbing lead-based paint, which can be harmful to adults and children.

To protect against this risk, on April 22, 2008, EPA issued a rule requiring the use of lead-safe practices and other actions aimed at preventing lead poisoning. Under the rule, beginning April 22, 2010, contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified and must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination.

EPA requires that firms performing renovation, repair, and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in pre-1978 homes, child care facilities and schools be certified by EPA and that they use certified renovators who are trained by EPA-approved training providers to follow lead-safe work practices. Individuals can become certified renovators by taking an eight-hour training course from an EPA-approved training provider. Learn how to become an EPA certified firm and where to take a training course near you.

• Contractors must use lead-safe work practices and follow these three simple procedures:
  • Contain the work area.
  • Minimize dust.
  • Clean up thoroughly.
• Read EPA’s Regulations on Residential Property Renovation at 40 CFR 745.80, Subpart E.
• Read about lead-hazard information for renovation, repair and painting activities in the EPA lead hazard information pamphlet Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers, and Schools (PDF) (11 pp, 1.1MB) | en español (PDF) (11 pp, 2.4MB)
• Read about how to comply with EPA’s rule in the EPA Small Entity Compliance Guide to Renovate Right (PDF) (32 pp, 5.5MB) | en español (PDF) (34 pp, 1.3MB).
• Find additional EPA publications and brochures on lead-safe renovation, repair and painting and on lead poisoning prevention.

Beginning in December 2008, the rule requires that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint provide to owners and occupants of child care facilities and to parents and guardians of children under age six that attend child care facilities built prior to 1978 the lead hazard information pamphlet Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers, and Schools (PDF) (11 pp, 1.1MB). | en español (PDF) (11 pp, 2.4MB)

The rule affects paid renovators who work in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities, including:

• Renovation contractors
• Maintenance workers in multi-family housing
• Painters and other specialty trades.

Under the rule, child-occupied facilities are defined as residential, public or commercial buildings where children under age six are present on a regular basis. The requirements apply to renovation, repair or painting activities. The rule generally does not apply to minor maintenance or repair activities where less than six square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed in a room or where less then 20 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed on the exterior, but this does not include window replacement, demolition, or prohibited practices.

Previously, owner-occupants of homes built before 1978 could certify that no child six years of age or younger or pregnant woman was living in the home and “opt-out” of having their contractors follow lead-safe work practices in their homes. On April 23, 2010, to better prevent against lead paint poisoning, EPA issued a final rule to apply lead-safe work practices (PDF) (18 pp, 121K) to most pre-1978 homes, effectively closing the exemption. The rule eliminating the opt-out provision became effective July 6, 2010.