Bellows Plumbing, Heating & Sewer

Answer:  Dealers can tell homeowners what products and systems qualify for the tax credit and the qualifying amount; however, dealers don’t know what other qualifying products the homeowner may purchase before they file their taxes.  The safest strategy for dealers is to share the following chart with homeowners, which is taken from the Energy Star website. 

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Heating, Furnace, Tankless, Rebates, Credits

Furnace Filters How Old is Yours?

Tuesday, 9/8/2009 by jason schlunt

It's one of the most basic repairs we make but also one of the most immediately noticeable. A dirty filter lets old accumulated dust, mold, and debris enter the air you breath anytime your heater or forced air furnace kicks on.

Changing your filter is typically a very easy process. First check your return air grill you should see the filter. If you don't it's likely installed in the plenum next to the fan. Some contractors install them here, why I don't know, it's not to code. If your filter is installed in the plenum I recommend calling a professional.

If the filter is located in the return register simply remove the wing nuts that hold the screen closed and pop out the filter. You'll probably want to have a garbage bag nearby so you don't throw dust throughout the house. You'll notice the filter has a a size on it 17 X 23 - 22 X 29 and so on. Simply replace the filter and close the hatch up.

The typically filter is MERV-7 rated; MERV is the rating system used for filters. A MERV-7 removes dust and large particles. If you have allergies or want to get rid of mold spores or bacteria you'll need to get an MERV-3 filter or better installed by a professional, give us a call and we'll be happy to go through the different options.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Heating, Furnace, Filter, Mold, Dust, Pollen, Clean Air

DIY Gas Leak Detection Search

Tuesday, 8/18/2009 by jason schlunt

Living by the ocean means every homeowner will, at one time or another, suffer a gas pipe leak. Locating the leak, assuming its on an exposed pipe, is usually very time consuming but easier than you think. Though we use a number of different methods and expensive equipment to quickly locate most gas leaks, it's still possible to locate a gas leak using nothing more than Dawn soap and water mixed together in a spray bottle. Spray the mixture on all exposed pipes and fittings. If you see it bubbling, congratulations you've found the leak.

I'd recommend calling in the experts to fix the pipe or fitting, but at least you'll save money on the leak search.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Plumbing, DIY, Gas

Who is this Only Service Company Anyways?

Tuesday, 8/18/2009 by jason schlunt

You've probably noticed that Bellows Plumbing & Heating is flying under a new name and altered logo. We are still the same great company, still owned by the original Bellows & Schlunt famlies, but our services have expanded so much that we had to change our name.

We started off with plumbing in 1984, but over the past several years we have expanded our services to include heating, sewers, drains, air conditioning, and more. We figured that we love our clients, they love us, why not build a company where clients could get all their home services taken care of under one roof? OnlyService is born. We're the Only company you need to think of when your home is in need of service.

Our plan is to take on other services such as electric and solar. We also plan to continue expanding into the San Jose and Monterey markets.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Plumbing

Americans Warm Up to Tankless Water Heaters

Monday, 7/27/2009 by jason schlunt

Americans love their hot water. Lots of it. And while tankless water heaters deliver unquenchable supplies of on-demand hot water, many homeowners are warming to the other benefits of these appliances: energy and space savings. According to tankless water heater experts, a tankless water heater can take 30 to 50 percent off of ones water heating costs compared to traditional water heaters.

A typical 40-gallon heater is like running your car all night in the garage until you drive it,” says Peter LaRose of Nelson and Small, a Northeastern U.S. distributor of top-rated Rinnai tankless heaters. “Why have a water heater running when you don’t need it? A tankless system uses no energy until you turn on the faucet.”1

Tank systems guzzle energy almost all day to maintain a preset temperature. As water cools, the system kicks on to reheat water. The cycle repeats day and night, whether or not anyone is home.

And as many morning bathers who are last in line for a shower can attest, a traditional heater can’t keep up with the demand from showers, spa-like tubs and whirlpools. LaRose says only about 30 percent of a tank is drawn off before water must be heated again. “It’s an illogical way to heat water.”

European homes use two or more tankless heaters to offset energy costs several times higher than in North America. But the demand for hot water — and lots of it — makes the U.S. market different.

Tankless heater maker Noritz and Rinnai now markets a single unit better suited to American homes and the American appetites for hot water. The compact natural gas unit is wall mounted inside or outside a home. Sensors detect when a faucet is turned on, forcing water over a thin copper plate heated by 32 small burners. The compactness of the heater — 18 inches wide by 27 inches high — makes it a space saver. No mechanical room is necessary. So depending on where your current water heater is a tankless water heater may make it possible to gain an extra closet or storage space in the garage.

Homeowners use digital keypads to preset water temperatures to various rooms. Control pads are typically installed in laundry rooms, master baths or kitchens. The keypad makes it easy to adjust the temperature of water and resolves safety issues too. Scalding water is a danger to small children or older adults. Tank systems heat water 140 F or higher, well above the 120 F comfort zone for most showers. Once set, tankless water cannot be heated above the preset limit.

Expect to pay $3,000 to $4,400 for an installed Rinnai or Noiritz system. Gas sizing and proper venting are essential to the performance and safety of a tankless system. They are not a do-it-yourself project. A typical installation will take an experienced technician the better part of the day to complete. Depending on the volume of hot water usage, tankless water heaters need to be properly sized and the BTU rating must be high enough to avoid temperature drop.

La Rose say beyond energy and water consumption, homeowners will save on replacement costs. With regular maintenance tankless systems should last up to 20 years, nearly three to four times longer than tank systems.

“We think within 10 years, tankless systems will be the dominant source of hot water in North America,” says LaRose.

For more information on tankless water heaters and for estimates on installation please feel free to call one of our experienced technicians.
1. www.hamptonroad.com

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Tankless, On Demand Water Heater, Energy Efficient Systems

High Efficiency vs Low Flow Toilets What to Buy

Tuesday, 7/21/2009 by jason schlunt

Every week it seems we are faced with the question of what type of toilet is the best and which one qualifies for rebates and discounts.

In terms of the rebate it's not so cut and dry; it all depends on which water district you are part of. The different water districts offer credit on your water bill ranging from $300 to as little as $50. The rebate amount is largely dependent on what type of toilet you purchase and the age of the toilet you are having removed.

Typically if you are removing an old pre-1992 3.5 gallon per flush toilet and replacing with a high efficiency, better known as a HET 1.28 gallon per flush toilet, you'll qualify for some sort of rebate. If you're only replacing it with a 1.6 low flow type toilet you likely won't qualify under the new stricter rebate guidelines.

So let us say you have done your research and figured out whether you qualify for a rebate or not, which low flow type toilets perform the best.  Now before you start complaining and say something like, “Ten years ago we purchased one of those low flow toilets and the thing couldn’t flush a single piece of toilet paper….not a single piece damn it. We use to plunge that thing after every single night,” let me calm your nerves and assure you that the new low flow 1.6 and HET 1.28 toilets have all the power to get the job done. You can finally let go of those terrible toilet plunging nightmares that you've been hanging on to.

Among the HET 1.28 toilets our favorites are the Toto Eco-Drake and the Pro Flow HET Dual Flush. The Toto Eco-Drake with its attractive styling and powerful flush capability make it a top choice amount homeowners. The Toto Aquia, similar to the Drake, is another popular HET toilet. It’s different from the Drake in that it’s a dual flush toilet. The only problem with Aquai is that it only comes in elongated and Toto don’t make an ADA model yet. So there are some limitations when it comes to install.

Another great HET toilet is the ProFlow Dual HET. At about, $375 installed it’s a steal. What we like so much about the ProFlow HET Dual Flush is that even at a great value it has all the same flushing power as more expensive toilets. In terms of styling the ProFlow is your typical toilet; I’ve never had a client scream that it is the most amazing toilet they’d ever seen, and at the same time I’ve never had a client complain that they couldn’t stand the sight of it.

Low flow 1.6 gallon per flush toilets do not make a whole lot of sense with the newer HET toilets. But if you insist, as they are a little cheaper, here are a couple options. Toto makes the standard Drake toilet which has been our most popular deluxe grade toilet for the past 5 years running. It’s a great toilet, especially if you add the soft close seat option. For a more standard level toilet you can't go wrong with the Kohler Wellworth, it’s powerful, inexpensive, and has good styling.  Most people can find the Kohler Wellworth at the big home centers but be careful as the home center models are built slightly cheaper with more plastic parts than the exact same model your contractor will pick up at a specialty store.

By the way if you’re still confused don’t hesitate to give Bellows Plumbing & Heating a call, we’re always willing to assist you with your decision.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Toilet, Energy Efficient, Rebates

Choosing the right tankless on demand water heater

Monday, 7/20/2009 by jason schlunt

Proper Sizing & Quality

I have personally sold and installed over 200 tankless water heaters and the number one and two reasons for dissatisfaction with a tankless water heater is improper sizing and poor quality selection.

On demand water heaters can supply a continuous stream of hot water but they can only supply so much. Make sure you have a reasonable understanding of your hot water demand and then find a heater that can accommodate that. That goes hand in had with choosing a quality unit. The initial upfront cost of a tankless water heater is more than a conventional tank heater; about $400 for a tank water heater and $1000 for a tankless before installation. There are a lot of different manufactures out there that make all sorts of promises. The fact is, you get what you pay for when it comes to tankless. A lot of the units out there simply can’t perform for the average household.

At Bellows Plumbing Online Shop we only stock tankless water heaters that we’ve tested and tried, the ones that don’t perform in the field don’t make it on our site. If you follow our guidelines in choosing one we guarantee you’ll be thrilled with you new tankless unit.

Peak Demand

Sizing a tankless water heater is different than sizing a tank type heater. Sizing a traditional water heater means estimating the volume of hot water you will need within a one to two hour time frame. Sizing a tankless water heater requires estimating peak demand in terms of momentary usage; in other words, what is the most you will be running at the same time?

For a single person with low demand, this could be a single shower. For others, this could be multiple showers plus dishwasher. Use our hot water calculator to come up with a flow rate. Keep in mind that the calculator is based on averages and may not reflect your actual plumbing fixture or appliance. As a general rule I recommend getting a little more than you think you need.

Flow Rate

The primary measure you’ll hear people talking about with tankless water heaters is flow rate, measured in gallons per minute (GPM). In other words, how many GPM can be output while raising the water temperature by 35°F, 45°F, 60°F, 70°F, etc. The larger the temperature rise, the less the unit can output.

You will notice that all of our tankless water heaters are marked with an “Actual” Flow Rate. When we say “Actual” we really mean actual. A lot of units claim lofty temperature rises but these are typically only in perfect conditions. We install and service these units so have confidence in the flow rates that we report. Keep in mind that if you live in a cold climate, your actual performance could be less.

Gas or Electric

In some case you will only have one or the other, that makes choosing the right one pretty easy. If you have both gas or electric as an option, gas is always the better choice.

Electric tankless water heaters can be tricky to work with because they have a lower output and require a lot of electricity. They all have different electrical requirements and we recommend consulting an electrician prior to making a purchase. In terms of flow rate, most of the electric heaters we carry can only run one major application (shower, dishwasher, washing machine) at a time.

Gas tankless water heaters, sized with the proper gas line, can supply more hot water and are a better choice for those with mid-high demand. Gas tankless heaters can be installed indoor or out; though indoor is best in very cold climates to avoid a freezing risk. Outdoor installations can be less expensive since you eliminate the need for vent pipe.

High Flow Applications

Some customers will find that their peak demand is greater than any single unit can accommodate. In these situations, a multi-unit (manifold) configuration should be considered.

This type of set up is generally only required for multi-unit or commercial type buildings: condos, duplexes, restaurants, etc. For private residential use I have rarely come across it being necessary, more often than not when I see multi-unit on a residential home it’s because the client or plumber that installed the unit provided a sub-par type of unit. Call us for details if you think you might need a second unit, more than likely the unit you already have is install or size improperly.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Tankless, On Demand Water Heater, Energy Efficient Systems

Unclogging a stuck drain, give it a try on your own.

Monday, 7/20/2009 by jason schlunt

Are you like me? You like to try things yourself before calling in the experts. If so then it is possible to unclog minor sink and tub stoppages by yourself. Now I have to say none of these methods are guaranteed to work, but besides a little water in the face they won't do much harm if they fail.

The first thing to check is the pop up. You may be able to lift the stopper from the drain. If the stopper won’t lift out, that means it’s connected to the pivot rod. If you go behind the sink, you’ll see where the pivot rod and pop-up mechanism screw together. Unscrew this connection and remove the stopper.

Sometimes unclogging a sink or tub stoppage can be as simple as hitting the stoppage with a plunger. First you'll need to seal of any areas that air might escape, you want the force of plunger to hit the stoppage, not escape through the overflow. Use a wet rag and plug of the overflow or the side sink. Fill the sink so that the water level is above the rubber part of the plunger. Using the plunger, just as you would to unstop a toilet, hit the clog with all you got.

I recommend staying away from things like Drano or any of the acids. Not only can they be harmful to your health but they do more harm to your plumbing system and environment than good. Every year we come out to a house where the client has done thousands of dollars worth of damage to their plumbing system, either ruining the glues and plastics of their sewer line, or completely ruined their septic tank. My advice, try the methods above, and if all else fails call in a plumber.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Drain Clogs, DIY

Meter, meter where art thou?

Monday, 7/20/2009 by jason schlunt

Locating a leak is never an easy task, it's usually one you want to leave to the experts. But, it is fairly easy to determine if you have a leak. It starts by locating you water meter and understanding how to read it. It's always a good idea to slowly remove the lid as wasps, reptiles, and rodents have a tendency to set up shop in the meter box.

The meter is usually located along the sidewalk, in front of your home, inside a concrete box with a concrete cover marked “WATER METER.” In some homes the water meter is located in the basement. It may be a bit dark inside the meter box, so bring a flashlight along! Also you may find your meter is buried in dirt, a small garden shovel is a good idea for exposing the meter if necessary.

Meters measure water either in cubic feet or gallons. One cubic foot equals 7.48 gallons. For example, if your meter says you used 41 cubic feet in a day, you would multiply 41 by 7.48 to find out that over 306 gallons were used that day. Utilities with meters bill by the “unit,” normally, such units are measured as 100 cubic feet (748) or alternatively, 1,000 gallons. You can check for leaks on individually metered residences by using your meter. Make certain that no water is being used on the property. Then open the cap of your water meter. Note the location of dial test hand. Don’t run water for 30 minutes. If the dial has moved, you’ve got a leak.

The leak can be anywhere, toilets, angle stops, exposed pipe, underground pipe, hose bibs, water heater, the list goes on. Next week I'll discuss some potential leak spots and how to test.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Leak Detection

Just a Trickle When You Shower

Monday, 7/20/2009 by jason schlunt

One of the more common complaints we hear here at Bellows Plumbing & Heating is a lack of water pressure. As water travels from your city’s water tower, down through the vast network of water mains into your home, a host of factors can contribute to low water pressure.

Your home’s elevation in relation to the water tower may cause low pressure, because water loses its gravitational force as it passes over peaks and valley en route to your home. Low water flow from a faucet or showerhead is often interrupted as low water pressure. In many cases, low flow may be caused by a water conserving flow restriction known as a pressure reducing valve. These valves are important because they lower the water pressure as it comes into your house. This is important because high water pressure will reduce the life expectancy of plumbing fixtures and pipes. But, low water flow may also result from a constriction somewhere in the water line. Before you invest in a pressure pump to boost water pressure you should check for the possibility of constriction.

Water line constriction may have several causes. On houses supplied by a municipal water system, check the shutoff valves on both sides of the house’s water meter to make sure they are fully open. If either valve is partially closed, it will reduce pressure. If the water inlet pipe uses a reducing valve, check that its strainer is not clogged. Also, check exposed copper pipes for kinks. In some cases restriction can be caused by the natural accumulation of sediment and mineral deposits inside the pipe. Over time a 1 inch pipe may be reduced down to less than a ¼ inch with all the mineral and sediment deposits.

A professional plumber can quickly inspect all the possible causes and will likely be able to provide a quick remedy. If all the normal pipe – and valve related causes are ruled out, you may consider installing a pressure booster pump, which starts up on demand when you open a tap and runs continuously – without pressure fluctuations – until you shut off the tap.

If you faucets and shower are running slow and low, feel free to call on us to figure out the problem – and the right solution.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Water Softener, Water

Instant Hot Water - Minimal Assembly - Why Haven't You Already Called?

Probably 9 out of 10 clients I see when asked the question, "How long do you wait for hot water when hopping in the shower," answer 1 to 3 minutes. Think about it that's literally thousands of gallons of water per year per person. All because the home owner hasn't made the minimal investment in a hot water circulating pump.

Installation of a hot water circulating pump used to mean a pretty labor intensive project with running the cold water return line and all. But, today's systems are fairly simple and require no return line, in fact most installation take less than an hour to complete.

My favorite model is the Grundfos circulating system which uses a bypass valve and pump with a timer to control water flow. As water slowly cools in the hot water line, the circulating hot water pump moves the hot water from the water heater through the baffle and back to the water heater along the cold water line.

Most of the Grundfos hot water circulating pumps also utilize a timer so that you can choose which hours of the day you want the pump to run. There's no need to have hot instant hot water in the middle of the day when no-one is home.

Posted: by Jason S
Tags: Water heaters, Instant Hot Water, Energy Efficient